Soulinh Souvannasay packs mushrooms in the parking lot of the Crater Lake Inn in Chemult, Ore., for delivery each night to Portland, and from there to Japan. The elusive matsusake mushroom, which fetches a pretty penny in Japanese restaurants, can begin its journey on the floor of the Fremont-Winema National Forest in Chemult, Ore. Here immigrants from Laos, Cambodia and other countries search for the mushrooms, creating a fungal economy and an ad hoc community.
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